Interviews

The conversation around denim is shifting from surface aesthetics to systemic responsibility. In this changing landscape, Carme Santacruz, Creative Director and Senior Denim Designer at Jeanologia, discusses how designers can balance creativity, technology, and emotion while pursuing sustainable transformation, ensuring that new processes respect heritage, enable experimentation, and keep the human essence of denim alive in a digital future.

Ethiopia’s experiment with industrialisation has transformed its social fabric as much as its economy. Behind the walls of its textile factories are thousands of young women and men who left rural life in search of stability and progress. Yet, their experiences reveal a complex story of resilience, disappointment, and adaptation. At the centre of this analysis is Michaela Fink, author of Labor Turnover in Ethiopia’s Textile Industry Global: A Hotspot of Social Transformation, who documents how industrial work reshapes identities, families, and communities across Ethiopia.

The shifting dynamics of global apparel sourcing are bringing new regions to the fore, and Ethiopia is increasingly in focus. Supported by industrial investments and a young, trainable workforce, the country is courting European manufacturers seeking reliable alternatives to Asia. Susanne Pass, Managing Director of Dialog Textil-Bekleidung (DTB), outlines how sustained engagement, infrastructure development, and training can position Ethiopia as a long-term player in the international textile landscape.

The dynamics of global sourcing are evolving, and Africa is positioning itself at the heart of these shifts. With infrastructure built through Asian partnerships and an expanding manufacturing base, the continent is becoming part of a broader rebalancing of global trade. Guiding this transformation is Skander Negasi, Chief Executive Officer of Trade and Fairs Consulting, organiser of Africa Sourcing and Fashion Week, who underscores that Africa’s sourcing story is now one of resilience, resourcefulness, and rising capability.

As Ethiopia’s artisan sector faces globalisation’s pressures, a new generation of designers is redefining what “handmade” means in a digitally connected and fast-changing world. Mekdes Mesfin, Founder and Creative Director of Demii Design, believes that craftsmanship and innovation can evolve together — sustaining livelihoods while shaping a modern national identity through design and empowering communities to see fashion as cultural continuity, not merely commerce.

Ethiopia’s cotton sector, once a pillar of African textile production, is being re-energised through renewed coordination between farmers, industry, and policymakers. At the centre of these efforts is Tsegaye Abebe, Executive Director of the Ethiopian Cotton Association (ECA), who outlines how the country can convert its vast but underutilised cotton potential into a sustainable and competitive national asset.

Saudi Arabia’s growing ambitions in fashion and textiles took centre stage at the 3rd Saudi Fashiontex Expo in Jeddah. The event brought together participants from 25 countries, highlighting the Kingdom’s push to align creativity, trade, and sustainability. Steering this transformation is Filiz Karakul, Managing Director of event organiser Pyramid Group, who explains how the platform is helping redefine Saudi Arabia’s role in the global textile landscape.

The bio-based textile economy is entering a decisive phase as technological innovation reshapes how natural fibres are harvested and processed. At the centre of this transformation is Niels Baert, Founder of Hyler, a Belgian company pioneering hybrid agricultural machinery for fibre crops. His insights reveal both the industry’s persistent challenges and the opportunities driving sustainable fibre production forward.

As global supply chains undergo legal and environmental scrutiny, Cambodia’s garment sector stands at a crossroads. Persistent labour challenges, climate shocks, and governance weaknesses threaten its export competitiveness. In this candid interview, Andrew Crawford, Research Fellow at the German Institute for Global and Area Studies, explains why swift structural reform is essential for survival.

A new era of textile innovation is unfolding, driven by digital tools, material transparency, and collaborative thinking. At the heart of this transformation is Mijke van Ballegooijen, CEO of Byborre, whose platform challenges conventional production and design systems. She explains how empowering creators and rethinking supply chains can reshape the industry’s creative and environmental future.